Sunday, September 26, 2010

The Romans in France

It's hard for many Americans to fathom, but more than 2,000 years ago the Romans built an advanced civilization here in France and throughout the Mediterranean. They constructed roads, theaters, aqueducts, public baths, and fancy homes with tiled floors. After Rome fell, Europe went into the Dark Ages, where they produced almost nothing lasting in architecture, art, or literature. After 20 centuries, a surprising number of the Roman structures remain standing.

In Southern France, relatively close to Rome, the most impressive remaining structure is a bridge called Pont du Gard - built not for roads but to carry fresh spring water 30 miles from the mountains to the city of Nimes. Nimes is on a river, so it had a source of water nearby; but the Romans wanted fresh, clean mountain water - so badly that they spent huge sums of money to build a 30-mile canal over hilly terrain. This canal had to travel over a river canyon, so they built this huge bridge to take the fresh water across it. This system worked for 150 years, and the water could reach the city from the spring in just 24 hours, dropping only 40 feet during the journey. It is an engineering marvel.

We enjoyed walking under the bridge and marveling at its many arches - three layers of them, including a huge one that crosses the river itself. The bridge was built entirely with stones, with no mortar. It must have taken thousands of workers to complete it.


The city of Arles also has some awesome Roman ruins. Our hotel was a stone's throw from the two biggest. The Roman arena, or coliseum, was built for entertaining the masses: as many as 20,000 Romans would go there to watch gladiators fight to the death against lions. The exits were called "vomitorium" because they would "vomit" the people out onto the strees. Today, it is still in use - for bullfights. During the Middle Ages, townspeople lived inside it, for protection against marauders. In the late 1800s, it was reconstructed so it could be used again as an amphitheater.

Arles also has the remains of a Classical Theater, for plays and lectures. The seats are still there, but the stage has fallen apart. You can also see remnants of the old Roman forum, the central square. The Romans had a large "circus" for chariot races; on that site the French have built a museum that holds a lot of marble statues left over from Roman days, including one of Julius Caesar, who built a big city at Arles to thank it for making ships that helped him in battle.












It's cool to imagine what this city was like in the Roman days. They had quite a life.

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